Haut Brion 1988

The 1988 Haut Brion is very dark ruby red, quite intense even crimson-tinged. Nose needs more work than previous two wines but really lovely scents emerge: flowery violet notes, game and wood-smoke and a lovely streak of minerality. On the palate it is very savoury, very dense and liquoricy with fine grippy tannins and good acidity. The fruit is all there and is very concentrated and rich if rather submerged at present. There is smoke, tobacco and olives and a twist of liquorice in the long finish. Excellent and with terrific potential.

What a beautiful and complete wine, with dark chocolate, crushed blackberry, cedar and raspberry on the nose. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a beautiful licorice, tar and fruit aftertaste. Long and complex. Will improve with age.