Gaja Brunello di Montalcino ‘Sugarille’ 2006 Magnum in owc1

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is a tighter, darker and ulimtately more inward Brunello than the Rennina. Dark wild cherries, plums, tobacco, licorice, spices and menthol are wrapped around a substantial frame of tannic heft. Ideally the wine needs at least another few years in bottle, but it is impossible to miss the wine’s fabulous sense of poise and harmony. As always, Sugarille is a Brunello that speaks with a distinctly Piedmontese accent. It is a beautiful wine by any measure. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.

This very perfumed red evokes flowers, spices and wild underbrush. This is rich and fleshy, boasting plum, licorice, tar and mineral flavors that get a boost from the firm, lively structure. Shows fine density and extract, with a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2026.

Maturing, healthy-looking ruby with lively orange rim. Already maturing a little on the nose with tobacco leaf and hints of sweet kirsch and a hint of fruitcake. Little ethereal from the alcohol. Hint of Moroccan leather and oak. Intense and not overtly sweet. Waves of grainy tannin. Impressive but oak tannin is a little dry on the finish. Sweet dried-fruit notes on the finish. Modern! Walter Speller