Clos de la Roche 2017 A. Rousseau

‘Muscular’ is how Cyrielle Rousseau describes her Clos de la Roche, made from two parcels – one high and one low – that total 1.48ha, with some parts over a century old. Everything is relative, of course, because this isn’t an especially tannic wine, although it certainly has good intensity. It’s sappy, subtly oaked and refined with succulent bramble and black cherry fruit.